Day 38

Grand Ol' Opry

They say that any classic story song you can think of that either makes you laugh out loud or cry in your beer, probably came from Nashville. And although the city has probably spawned almost every major Country star that ever lived, it isn't all about Country music. Well, it actually is but there is a tiny bit of room left over for some other singers and songwriters.

After a very much needed kip, I woke up early and went for a 39-I-feel-like-I'm-going-to-fall-over-from-the-heat run. It was great. I felt lousy. Oh, the joys of long distance running...

We checked out of Best Western and drove north to see The Grand Old Opry.





I had phoned ahead and been told that we could do a tour at either 12:00 or 2:00. Now, I am not a very big fan of Country music but the place blew me away. It is impossible to not feel chills when you walk inside and see the stage that has hosted musicians and celebrities from every single corner of the world.

We arrived early, only to find that the 12:00 tour was already sold out. Bitter! We bought tickets for the 2:00 tour and then had a gander around the museum next door.

The Grand Ole Opry started as a radio program in the National Life & Accident Insurance Company on October 18, 1925. For over two years, the show featured string quartets, fiddlers and other old-time musicians. In 1927, the program director, George Hay, remarked that the music one night was taken from the Grand Opera after several hours of 'realistic' music. He dubbed the program as the Grand Ole Opry and the name stuck. For the next 15 years, audiences increased and public interest grew. During this time the venue for the show moved several times before settling in the Ryman Auditorium in 1943.

The Ryman was the home to the Grand Ole Opry until 1974, when it moved to the Opry House and still broadcasts from there today. In the last 33 years everyone from Garth Brooks to the Smashing Pumpkins have played there. In addition numerous sports, television and film stars have appeared on stage as well. Over the years, many stars have said that the biggest thrill in playing The Opry is knowing that the same stage they are standing on has seen legend after legend on it since the first show there in 1974.

The museum contained numerous exhibits of all the regulars and members of the Opry. There was a section containing all of the advertising posters and flyers. There were several sections set up as replicas of sitting rooms or offices of several of the members. It was all very interesting.















Feeling pecky, we walked across the street to The Opry Mills. Yes, there is a mall there called The Mills. We had a long gander around and then had a sambo from Subway.

Finally, 2:00 rolled around and we were allowed into The Opry. The tour was really good - it explained the history of the Opry and was conducted by a mighty good guide! She was fully kitted out in a Loretta Lynn tin of fruit and was extremely enthusiastic.

We watched a video, went through the main entrance into the offices, saw behind the scenes in a studio and wandered past all of the dressing rooms. We were then allowed on stage to take pictures and the whole group (except me and Paulo) sang 'You Are My Sunshine'. They wouldn't let us sing 'Break On Through' so we both opted to hang back on stage and not participate.













Of course when you are in Nashville and you are at The Grand Ole Opry, there is one more place you have to stop and see.



"Gou... Gou... Gou..."

This place was great! It was apparently set up by the actor who played Cooter and it must contain every single piece of merchandising ever made for the show. It has all the vehicles used in the show, endless pictures, toys, records, posters and even Daisy Duke's hotter-than-hot hot pants.









When we left, we were going to venture into Hazard County but decided it was just a little too far out of our way.



So, instead we got on to 65N instead and drove into Kentucky. The usual stop at the visitor center provided us with a coupon for a room in a Days Inn that was advertised as only ten minutes from the city. In actual fact, it was about ten miles (and 25 minutes).

We checked in and drove into town for a bite. I had seen Bluegrass Brewing Company advertised somewhere, so we went there. There seemed to be a really good buzz in the city and the bar was pretty cool. I ordered some chili as a starter and it was fantastic! I also sampled some of the local amber ale - very tasty.

We were both shattered, so we drove back to the hotel and went to sleep. The piles of miles really wore us out today.

Day 37

The Day After The 4th Of July

OK, I probably drank a bit too much yesterday. But it was a national holiday, it's kind of expected isn't it? I did NOT get up for a run this morning. In fact I did not even get up in the morning. We slept it out until the early afternoon.

When we finally rose we had to rush to get out because we were so hungry. But this time we drove and found a great spot called Noshville. It's a proper, old school New York deli. Their catch phrase is 'Make your mother happy. Eat lots.' So we did. Both things.





I ordered a club sandwich but as a curve ball replaced the bacon with corned beef. The thing was so big that I had to split each half into another half. In the end I couldn't get my gob around it and had to settle for a bow wow.

Feeling adequately full, we decided to do our favourite hung-over, feeling-low thing. Check out a few record shops. We lucked out because The Great Escape was right across the street from Noshville. We had a sniff around but didn't buy anything. Actually, Paulo bought one disc. It's just rude to go into a good shop and not buy anything.

Next we made our way to Grimey's, which by most accounts (including ours) is Nashville's best record shop.



When we got there they were playing Interpol's new album 'Our Love To Admire' even though it isn't being released until the tenth. When Paulo asked your man at the counter, he replied by saying that he had a "cheeky" copy. Paulo's response was, "oh man, you are killing me!" The guy responded by giving him a free copy of 'The Heinrich Maneuver' on vinyl. Fair play. we had a good look around and each of us bought some preloved CDs and a T-shirt. More stuff for our respective 'bags 'o trash".

We then drove back to the hotel and crashed for the night as we were both knackered.

Happy 4th Of July

Day 36

I woke up this morning and despite a bit of a sore head and the stifling heat and humidity went for a run. I managed 40 minutes through the city in an effort to get my bearings. I arrived back to the room looking like I had spent the entire time under a tap of water.

Showers, a quick tidy-up and we were off into town for breakfast. Except it was now lunch time and we were both really hank.

We passed LP field, home of the Titans and walked down to Broadway.



After looking in a few places and checking out several menus, we settled on a place called Rippys. Where they always enjoy live music and love their pork - pulled, smoked, cooked, baked, grilled, chopped or sliced it doesn't matter. It's also the place where pigs really do fly.









I had a sliced pork Johnny and Paulo had a pulled one, both washed down with some lemonade.

We left Rippys and had a look at the shops around Broadway, where it is all about the cowboys.













We then went back up 2nd Avenue and spent ages in the Sun Shop. What a great place! It's got everything Sun and even a huge selection of cowboy hats.









There's also a recording studio in the back where you can cut you own record for only $29.95. Despite my prodding, Paulo decided not to record his rendition of 'Great Balls Of Fire.





We left the Sun Shop with a few more hours to go before the night and celebrations kicked off. Buffalo Billiards offered the perfect solution - free pool & darts and 2 for 1 draft beers. I love this city!

We shot lots of pool but Paulo kept kicking my arse, so we moved on to darts. He kicked my arse some more. No bother - we had a great evening and met lots of cool peeps throughout.

We squeezed in a quick Johnny from the kitchen and then went to watch the fireworks display down at the river front. It thought it was great but Paulo was a bit less impressed. He kept saying, "Epcot is better..."









The crowds leaving the river front were massive, so we ducked into the first place we saw - Cornerstone Bar. We had a pint or two, met some more peeps and had a laugh.

Then we ventured the ten steps to next door, another bar called Beer Sellar, that had over 100 draft beers. An entire wall was covered in taps. We hung out in the corner, shooting darts and having a laugh. Paulo kicked my arse some more.



There was time for a nightcap so we chose the cheesiest, dodgiest place we could find on 2nd Avenue - Wild Bill's Saloon. The place is dreadful - non stop karaoke. I don't know why we went in there but after ordering a couple of Coronas we immediately regretted. Regaining a bit of sense we downed the beers and legged it. A taxi was there waiting and we were back to the hotel in no time, totally wrecked from a great 4th in Nashville.